The chief creative officer, days after launching a Supreme collab, says after three years at the UK’s largest luxury company, it’s play time.
It was back to London for Burberry — but not London Fashion Week. And, it was back to the physical show format for the first time in two years, with a collection that twisted and played with its heritage trench coat and brought a dramatic new approach to evening wear with voluminous sculptural gowns and sweeping dresses in dandelion yellow organza.
Burberry’s Tisci says new collection is “the most Burberry, the most me”
Chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci is ready for his moment, as the company readies for a new era. Incoming CEO Jonathan Akeroyd will join from Versace next week following the departure of Marco Gobbetti last summer. At the same time, the cloud of the Russian war and the Covid-19 pandemic linger.
“This collection is the most Burberry, the most me,” an ebullient Tisci said after the collection, wearing a black fitted shirt with the renewed Equestrian Knight design, a nod to the heritage of Burberry he is finally at home with. The models powered through the darkly lit Central Hall Westminster, a stone’s throw from Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, stepping up on to formally set dinner tables, crowded with press and buyers, while an orchestra played. It was Britishness to the core, but with Tisci’s signature twist and naughtiness.
Burberry has long been the biggest drawcard for London Fashion Week, but with a London schedule built on emerging designers, this year the brand showed off-calendar and notably close to this weekend’s Bafta Awards. Burberry still lures the press and buyer numbers, and a celebrity cast from Adam Driver, who appears in its fragrance campaign, to British favorites of Tisci such as Kate Moss, rapper Blondey McCoy, and DJ and drag queen Jodie Harsh. Tisci said the collection was shown off-schedule because that’s when it was ready.
Tisci has, in partnership with Gobbetti, worked to build up the £2.3 billion contemporary British brand into a true luxury player. The end of the partnership with Gobbetti following his exit to Salvatore Ferragamo means there is more change coming. The move initially prompted suggestions Tisci may leave, but for now, he has stayed on and will be there for Akeroyd when he joins next week.